The work reflects on the comparative method that distinguishes the production of Leonardo

da Vinci, whose multifaceted ingenuity finds practical application in his ability to

bring together apparently extraneous faculties and applications in coherent logical units,

according to an approach that fully embodies the aspiration to the characteristic syncretism

of his time.

In the analysis of the man and the work, I have traced a useful medium to connect three

forms of expression which can be considered themselves as media, vehicles of “images”

that have been belatedly recognized and formalized: fashion, painting and cinema, completely

autonomous fields, although interconnected within underground strata, being

sources of endless analytical and interpretative ideas.

The title should also be understood in an analogical and comparative sense: Leonardo’s

“plots” are the traits of his personality and refer to the allegorical narratives that run

through his canvases and to the interwoven motifs that the artist drew throughout his

life, as if they were the leitmotif of his entire sensitive experience. The plots are also those

of fashion, its stories and its fabrics which tell, including the cinematographic plots as well,

the constituent values of an era.

The first part of this article relates to the “universal genius” and the great Russian film

director Sergei M. Ejzenštejn, who passionately studied Leonardo’s work, drawing inspiration

from the master’s pictorial compositions for the shots of his films. Linked by surprising

attitudinal and character connections, Ejzenštejn and Leonardo were both set designers

and ‘costume designers’, as well as artists capable to revolutionize the concept of the image.

The second part focuses on the years Leonardo spent at the sumptuous court of Ludovico il

Moro (1482 - 1499), the beating heart of a Milan which at the end of the 15th century was

experiencing an extraordinary economic and cultural boom.

In what today we would call the “Milano da bere” (literally, “Milan to drink”, an expression

that in Italian indicates Milan’s rich and lively social life in the 1980s), a cultural capital

that found its main form of expression in appearances and in the seductive artefacts of

fashion, Leonardo, a refined connoisseur of fabrics, now urged on by patrons and by direct

contact with Milan’s luxury factories, practiced his skills in matters of clothing, developing

ingenious machines for the textile sector and real paper patterns for clothes destined to

enrich the sumptuous Sforza wardrobe.

Giorgio Levi

Giorgio Levi, triestino di nascita e pisano di adozione, è stato professore ordinario di Informatica fino al 2012: uno dei fondatori della prestigiosa scuola pisana, ricercatore noto a livello internazionale, insignito dell’ordine del Cherubino. Da anni collezionista di ceramica italiana del primo novecento, si è trasformato in studioso, dedicandosi alla riscoperta e valorizzazione di ceramisti, manifatture e distretti ceramici dimenticati o mai studiati in modo scientifico. Ha pubblicato 7 libri e curato 2 mostre.

Ten years after the untimely death of the artist Ugo Marano, which took place in October

2011, the author resumes the ‘dialogue’ with the sculptor, ceramist and designer who

marked a significant page in Italian contemporary art. The attention focuses on two aspects

of his extensive creative experience, narrowing the narrative into a chronological

span and which, from the late Sixties, reach the very early Nineties. An analysis aimed at

clarifying the tones, the innovations that, dialectically, Marano, by the end of the Sixties,

did, challenging the Arte Povera, Conceptual, Minimalism movements and, then, challenging

the groups active in the vast Italian scenario of the 1980s, marked by that jungle of

individual experiences, of groups that will feed the postmodern condition, which sent a

new vision of art, of the market and of criticism, above all.

The artist’s experience, in those years, left no room for the uncertainty of identity or for

feverish hesitations of thought: all that happened at a precise moment of Italian and international

artistic culture, projected towards the triumph of appearance, of excess rush

to zero out any vitality or ferment that had plowed through the immediately preceding

decades. Marano, on the other hand, with his work which, on several occasions deliberately

touched utopia, affirmed the identity of an existential experience, charged with an

original, primary force: that of a new Prometheus.

Giorgio Levi

Giorgio Levi, triestino di nascita e pisano di adozione, è stato professore ordinario di Informatica fino al 2012: uno dei fondatori della prestigiosa scuola pisana, ricercatore noto a livello internazionale, insignito dell’ordine del Cherubino. Da anni collezionista di ceramica italiana del primo novecento, si è trasformato in studioso, dedicandosi alla riscoperta e valorizzazione di ceramisti, manifatture e distretti ceramici dimenticati o mai studiati in modo scientifico. Ha pubblicato 7 libri e curato 2 mostre.

The essay presents two private collections of handcrafted furniture, produced in Sicily in

the 1920s and 1930s, in various styles (secessionist, futurist, deco). Most of the furnishings

are due to unknown artisans, influenced by the work of important players also on a

national level, such as Basile, Ducrot, Bevilacqua, Fallica, Morici and Rizzo. There are many

furnishings from the dismantling of workshops and shops of artistic and historical interest,

which should be protected with the imposition of constraints.

Giorgio Levi

Giorgio Levi, triestino di nascita e pisano di adozione, è stato professore ordinario di Informatica fino al 2012: uno dei fondatori della prestigiosa scuola pisana, ricercatore noto a livello internazionale, insignito dell’ordine del Cherubino. Da anni collezionista di ceramica italiana del primo novecento, si è trasformato in studioso, dedicandosi alla riscoperta e valorizzazione di ceramisti, manifatture e distretti ceramici dimenticati o mai studiati in modo scientifico. Ha pubblicato 7 libri e curato 2 mostre.

Hans Stoltenberg Lerche (Düsseldorf 1867-Rome 1920)

Painter and sculptor devoted to applied art, Lerche, despite living abroad, has always

claimed his Norwegian nationality. After years of training in Paris where he made his

debut at the Salon as a portrait sculptor and as a ceramist, he settled in Rome in 1901.

From then on, he participated in all the most important art exhibitions held in Italy: he

was present in Turin in 1902, in Milan in 1906, in Venice at the Biennale in different years,

and in Rome at the annual exhibitions of the Amatori e Cultori di Belle Arti. He exhibited

sculptures in terracotta or bronze, plates and vases in porcelain or ceramic, jewels in gold

or silver and semi-precious stones, jugs, boxes, inkwells in pewter, silver or bronze. Artworks

that aroused the admiration of the public and the applause of critics intrigued by

the twisted and sinuous shapes of the metal objects, by the original combination of the

ceramic with-metal (that is, the application to the ceramic of bronze or silver trimmings,

edges, sockets, handles), and by the decorations: extravagant picturesque silhouettes

of crustaceans and insects or orchids and other flowers in the ceramics and disturbing

animals, spiders, scorpionfish, or mocking mythological figures, satyrs and fauns in the

metal artifacts. A free interpreter of Art Nouveau, Lerche combined the oddities of Nordic

sagas with the culture of classical Mediterranean mythology. A craftsman artist, he was

himself the executor of the objects he conceived. Always intent on experimenting, in 1911

he began a fertile collaboration with the Fratelli Toso furnace in Murano and created glass

vases, cups, and plates, operating a revolution toward modernity in both form and decoration.

At the height of his success and notoriety he died in 1920 crushed by Spanish fever.

Giorgio Levi

Giorgio Levi, triestino di nascita e pisano di adozione, è stato professore ordinario di Informatica fino al 2012: uno dei fondatori della prestigiosa scuola pisana, ricercatore noto a livello internazionale, insignito dell’ordine del Cherubino. Da anni collezionista di ceramica italiana del primo novecento, si è trasformato in studioso, dedicandosi alla riscoperta e valorizzazione di ceramisti, manifatture e distretti ceramici dimenticati o mai studiati in modo scientifico. Ha pubblicato 7 libri e curato 2 mostre.

The Ettore Sottsass jr. archive – currently at the Fondazione Giorgio Cini in Venice, after the
2018 donation by his wife Barbara Radice – during the last two years has been the focus
of a research project promoted by Università Iuav di Venezia, with the collaboration and
support of the foundation. Part of this study, that fits into the digitization and inventorying process of the over
100,000 pieces of the archive carried out by Centro ARCHiVe – the foundation dedicated
center –, concerns the graphic design projects of the architect and designer. The work of
reinterpreting the historical context of the individual projects and their critical analysis
was based, programmatically, not only on these documents but on the reconstruction of a
networks of materials which are currently fragmented into different collections. The personal
memory of Sottsass is today in fact preserved thanks to many different archives,
divided between Venice, the CSAC - Center for studies and archives of communication of
the University of Parma and the Bibliothèque Kandinsky of the Center Pompidou in Paris.
Moreover we must add to this main archives what has been preserved by private companies,
by collectors and by those who have worked with the designer. Addressing an area
that has not yet been investigated, such as graphic design, and a defined chronological
period – from his formation to his first experiences with important industrial companies –,
this article aims at returning the results of a research based on many unpublished materials,
while highlighting some aspects of Ettore Sottsass jr. design practice.

Giorgio Levi

Giorgio Levi, triestino di nascita e pisano di adozione, è stato professore ordinario di Informatica fino al 2012: uno dei fondatori della prestigiosa scuola pisana, ricercatore noto a livello internazionale, insignito dell’ordine del Cherubino. Da anni collezionista di ceramica italiana del primo novecento, si è trasformato in studioso, dedicandosi alla riscoperta e valorizzazione di ceramisti, manifatture e distretti ceramici dimenticati o mai studiati in modo scientifico. Ha pubblicato 7 libri e curato 2 mostre.

The paper attempts a first overview on the history of the Saporiti company, active in
Besnate (Varese) since the immediate post-war period. The analysis is carried out within
the broader framework of the need not only to recognise design as a cultural asset, but
also to set up a network of interconnected, accessible archives, supported by more efficient
ways of interrogation than the current archiving system. Thanks to the attention
paid by Saporiti’s owners to the preservation of documentation on the history of their
own company, the paper faces the sequence of products, collaborations with architects
and designers, the organisation of the company and its fortune. Phases linked to market
demands and more experimental trends emerge, and thanks to the presence of designers
such as Augusto Bozzi, Ado Franchini, Alberto Rosselli and others, the reflections of both
the theoretical debate on furniture design and the fluctuations in taste and production
methods over a period of almost seventy years can be seen.

Giorgio Levi

Giorgio Levi, triestino di nascita e pisano di adozione, è stato professore ordinario di Informatica fino al 2012: uno dei fondatori della prestigiosa scuola pisana, ricercatore noto a livello internazionale, insignito dell’ordine del Cherubino. Da anni collezionista di ceramica italiana del primo novecento, si è trasformato in studioso, dedicandosi alla riscoperta e valorizzazione di ceramisti, manifatture e distretti ceramici dimenticati o mai studiati in modo scientifico. Ha pubblicato 7 libri e curato 2 mostre.

Fashion in all its spheres and creations is also part of the futurist reconstruction of the
universe. Among these, the gilet or waistcoat represents one of the most original and fun
garments, capable of personalizing and giving prestige to the wearer. There were not many
waistcoats, almost all made by Fortunato Depero, but today they appear as many works of
art, still fun and elegant at the same time. The article is an excursus on this garment, which
can still make us reflect on the elegance and extravagance of young fashion of yesterday
and today.

Giorgio Levi

Giorgio Levi, triestino di nascita e pisano di adozione, è stato professore ordinario di Informatica fino al 2012: uno dei fondatori della prestigiosa scuola pisana, ricercatore noto a livello internazionale, insignito dell’ordine del Cherubino. Da anni collezionista di ceramica italiana del primo novecento, si è trasformato in studioso, dedicandosi alla riscoperta e valorizzazione di ceramisti, manifatture e distretti ceramici dimenticati o mai studiati in modo scientifico. Ha pubblicato 7 libri e curato 2 mostre.

Marco Levi’s life path, director of the historic earthenware factory “Vedova Besio” in
Mondovì, town of popular ceramic, under the sign of the colorful cockerel. Last jew of the
monregalese community, led the factory through all the twentieth century, fascism, racial
laws, war, persecution, rebirth and deindustrialization. Man of great human depth, recognized
humility, tenacity and dedication to the work tradition and to its town.

Giorgio Levi

Giorgio Levi, triestino di nascita e pisano di adozione, è stato professore ordinario di Informatica fino al 2012: uno dei fondatori della prestigiosa scuola pisana, ricercatore noto a livello internazionale, insignito dell’ordine del Cherubino. Da anni collezionista di ceramica italiana del primo novecento, si è trasformato in studioso, dedicandosi alla riscoperta e valorizzazione di ceramisti, manifatture e distretti ceramici dimenticati o mai studiati in modo scientifico. Ha pubblicato 7 libri e curato 2 mostre.

One hundred years after his birth, the article would like to examine the artistic career of
Giorgio Cipriani (Venice, 1921- Florence, 1994). Drawing on the unpublished materials of
the Siena archive, we will retrace some stages of a figure undoubtedly forgotten but whose
path, instead, has intertwined well-known paths, ranging from ceramics (exhibited at the
IX Triennale di Milano in 1951), to fabrics art, created for companies of absolute excellence,
to the creation of decorative panels for the ships of the Lauro Fleet and up to the sets for
various Italian theaters (including Teatro S. Carlo, Naples, Teatro La Fenice, Venice, Teatro
alla Scala, Milan).

Giorgio Levi

Giorgio Levi, triestino di nascita e pisano di adozione, è stato professore ordinario di Informatica fino al 2012: uno dei fondatori della prestigiosa scuola pisana, ricercatore noto a livello internazionale, insignito dell’ordine del Cherubino. Da anni collezionista di ceramica italiana del primo novecento, si è trasformato in studioso, dedicandosi alla riscoperta e valorizzazione di ceramisti, manifatture e distretti ceramici dimenticati o mai studiati in modo scientifico. Ha pubblicato 7 libri e curato 2 mostre.

Edoardo “Dady” Orsi (1917-2003) has produced from the Sixties to the Nineties a large
number of reverse-glass paintings. This corpus constitutes a unicum in the context of Italian
art of the Twentieth Century. In the article, the particular connotation of Orsi’s work
as a cultured operation, although situated on the borderline between pure painting and
handicraft object, emerges on the basis of the comparison of Orsi’s work with the traditional
and folkloric reverse glass painting and the one practiced by naïf painters. We
examine the cultural background of the artist and his relationship with the craftsmanship
and design of glass between Venice and Milan in 900 (Aldo Carpi, Bottega di Pietro Chiesa,
Fontana Arte). Finally, we describe the particular poetics in which references to seventeenth-
century art, symbolism and metaphysics are declined in a “pre-post-modern” key.

Giorgio Levi

Giorgio Levi, triestino di nascita e pisano di adozione, è stato professore ordinario di Informatica fino al 2012: uno dei fondatori della prestigiosa scuola pisana, ricercatore noto a livello internazionale, insignito dell’ordine del Cherubino. Da anni collezionista di ceramica italiana del primo novecento, si è trasformato in studioso, dedicandosi alla riscoperta e valorizzazione di ceramisti, manifatture e distretti ceramici dimenticati o mai studiati in modo scientifico. Ha pubblicato 7 libri e curato 2 mostre.